It seems that you're using an outdated browser. Some things may not work as they should (or don't work at all).
We suggest you upgrade newer and better browser like: Chrome, Firefox, Internet Explorer or Opera

×
avatar
ariaspi: That's an excellent drive, but it's Samsung, so it is on the expensive side. Alternatively, there's Kingston A2000, a very good drive, usually at an affordable price (don't confuse it with KC2000, which is much more expensive).
Unfortunately there's no compatibility with 7, so I'll chose a classic SSD Samsung 850 EVO 500GB.

avatar
ariaspi: Not many cases come with an optical drive bay nowadays, but that Cooler Master MasterBox NR600 is a solid choice. Or as you already said, get an external optical drive. Lite-On are usually very good.
avatar
clarry: I prefer to use an external optical drive. Not because it's better, but because internal 5.25" drives are large, often require a drive cage that may obstruct air flow from the front intake fans, and require more wiring (even with a very large case, I find cable management to be annoying when you have a huge bundle of cables.. one less drive = two less cables). Also, having an external drive is convenient in the scenario where you temporarily need one to plug into a laptop or some other device that has no built in external drive.
The fact is I'm afraid I could have some problems during installation with USB. So I decide for an internal one even if I think as you there will be a little less air flow.

avatar
ariaspi: When you find a case you think is good for your build, go on the manufacturer's site and look at the specs. It should say the maximum height for the CPU cooler and maximum length for the video card.
Very good advice. Thank you.

avatar
ariaspi: If you want more cooling, go for Noctua. If you want more silence, go for be quiet!.
Cooling is more important in my case: so Noctua will be my choice.

So finally I think that more or less my new pc is ready. Here's the list of components (a suggestion about cases I chose is well accepted).

One last question about the UPS: is it ok for the new configuration? I need some protection from power surges and autonomy time to turn it off when there won't be electric energy.
Post edited November 24, 2020 by XzAr_79
avatar
XzAr_79: One last question about the UPS: is it ok for the new configuration? I need some protection from power surges and autonomy time to turn it off when there won't be electric energy.
APC describe this unit as being line interactive (so it filters mains normally and switches to battery in the event of a blackout or brownout). This switch does involve a small (10ms) delay but it shouldn't be an issue in most cases. The stepped waveform shouldn't be a problem for switch-mode power supplies (which any vaguely recent PC PSU will be) as they don't care about it - but if you plan on connecting any other appliances, you may wish to double check on their waveform requirements.

If your power supply is really problematic though, you may want to consider an on-line UPS - however these only seem to be available on the top-end units (e.g. APC SmartUPS Online, not to be confused with SmartUPS which is still line interactive) with prices to match.

If your budget is tight, you might want to consider a DIY UPS instead.
avatar
AstralWanderer: APC describe this unit as being line interactive (so it filters mains normally and switches to battery in the event of a blackout or brownout). This switch does involve a small (10ms) delay but it shouldn't be an issue in most cases. The stepped waveform shouldn't be a problem for switch-mode power supplies (which any vaguely recent PC PSU will be) as they don't care about it - but if you plan on connecting any other appliances, you may wish to double check on their waveform requirements.
I will connect only monitor and pc. So I guess that it will be ok.

Ok. Now I have to figure out what monitor to buy for this system. I just want to thank everyone for his suggestions and advices.
Thank you, guys!!!!!
Attachments:
Post edited November 26, 2020 by XzAr_79