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I am having issue with a new pc i put together and i am hoping on some feedback.

Specs
Gigabyte B450M H Ultra Durable AM4 Micro ATX Motherboard
Corsair Vengeance LPX 8GB (2x 4GB) DDR4 CL16 2400MHz Memory Black
Kingston SSDNow A400 240GB 2.5" SATA III SSD SA400S37/240G
MD Ryzen 3 3200G 4 Core Socket AM4 3.6GHz CPU Processor + Wraith Stealth Cooler
Antec VSK10 Value Solution Series Micro-ATX Case
Cooler Master MWE V2 550W 80+ Bronze Non-Modular Power Supply

Old stuff
Generic Dell monitor, cheap keyboard and mouse

issue i have.

cannot install windows 10 as it BSOD every time it tries to boot windows installer usb. most of the time it does go to install screen but then upon choosing partition to install it crashes within 2-15 seconds. at longest it started to write on the ssd and crashed at 20 seconds mark.

dont know whats the issue

Run free version memtest86, four passes all tests, no errors detected. Running second time just for the sake of testing it again.
no BSOD at all during tests.


BSOD errors are different all the time, suggesting its memory issue (kernel, irql, memory management etc) but memtest86 is stable.

BIOS is final version, no update available on gigabyte webstie.

Already requested a refund on all components except case and PSU just in case.

Any suggestion on what to do?

My plan so far is start from easy stuff to more annoying

Replace ssd with my secondary one from my main computer see if thats ssd issue. bye bye games installed but thats easy fix.
Then start swapping memory stick and also replace them with the one on my main computer
replace 3200g with my 1600 and Nvidia gpu. that will require thermal paste purchase and never did that before.

but anything else can be broken? Would faulty PSU cause BSOD upon install?

Thank you very much!!!
This question / problem has been solved by AB2012image
Sorry for not being of any help, but this is the reason I've never built a PC myself from components, but always ordered them prebuilt. Then it is up to the vendor to make sure it boots up and works, I will not hand them any money before that.

Naturally it is easy for me to say as I am 90% a laptop user nowadays, but I haven't totally ruled it out I might still buy a high-end gaming desktop at some point, kind of as a last resort if I see PS5 era PC games just demand so much computing power that my gaming laptop doesn't cut it. In the past when I bought desktops, they were always no-name prebuilt, maybe I told the store I want a bigger hard drive and another graphics card instead of the default one, and that's it. They built it, I bought it, end of story.

If I still end up buying a desktop PC, I probably head to https://www.jimms.fi and check a suitable option from there. Oh and interestingly they sell their desktops totally without an OS, so I guess I'd have to buy a retail Windows 10 license separately. Kinda neat though for those brave souls installing Linux on their new PC instead.

EDIT: So my question is, why did you build it yourself? Did you get the parts from various different stores and saved lots of money that way, or do you just like tinkering it all together yourself?

Having said that, I've been thinking if I should do this to my laptops:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hdTsra-uLBI
Post edited May 19, 2020 by timppu
Did you activate an XMP profile in your BIOS? If so, try turning that off.
- Try running the memory at 2133MHz at "loose" timings. Some Ryzen boards can be very finicky with memory, ie, even though the memory may not be faulty it's still possible for a board to "just not like" certain types of RAM. Try removing one stick and test then put it back and remove the other. Try using the other two RAM slots on the board to test for faulty motherboard memory slot.

- If you can swap out some other components to test (PSU, etc) it would be a good thing to try to at least narrow down the problem. A faulty PSU can appear normal when idle in the BIOS but crash under load.

- If it crashes at exactly the same place every time, ie, SSD / drive partition selection, then I'd definitely try swapping your SSD for another or spare HDD if you have one lying around as it's possible there's a fault with the SSD controller. Try a different SATA port. Try completely unplugging all internal drives and test a Live Boot OS like Linux Mint. If that still "BSODs" / fails to boot then it at least probably rules out your SSD as the problem. If a newly imaged Linux LiveCD works, then try re-downloading and re-imaging your W10 USB stick installer. If you're currently using an old stick that hasn't been plugged in for a while, then it's entirely possibly the W10 image could have been corrupted via voltage drift (seen that happen with cheap USB sticks unpowered for over a year). Definitely try a different USB boot stick and try it in another USB socket (front vs rear).
Post edited May 19, 2020 by AB2012
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lukaszthegreat:
You say it BSOD under boot or install from the usb pen? It could be a driver issue, faulty harddrive/mamaboard settings, or a problem with the USB install pen.

Things to try (assuming there isn't any direct hardware fault from the factory, and not necessary in this order):

-1. Check that components are in their slot properly.

0. Reset BIOS (always when buying a new computer) and make sure you've set everything correctly, or that factory settings is ok. Or just set it to recommended and check. Resetting can help with memory problems and faulty settings.

1. Try creating the install pen again. (errors/corruptions can happen upon .iso to USB. Use Rufus https://rufus.ie/)

2. Use a different USB pen and 1. again (some USB pens can be somewhat tricky)

3. Set the new SSD on a different SATA port

4. Try another harddrive or another memory brick if you have spare ones (I've never trusted Kingston, but you never know).

5. Start up a Live Linux pen and install it, and observe how the computer handles that (recommend Linux Mint)

6. Use different tools on Hiren's Boot disk to check any errors (other than memory, which in my experience is less of a problem today than in the past.) https://www.hirensbootcd.org/

7. I haven't tried this with windows 10 yet, but previous versions were excellent at booting on another computers (even without installing the drivers first). Install the main drivers (at least for the mamaboard) onto your main computer. Then take the harddrive from that one and insert it into your new computer and try to boot into your old windows (don't install or have the usb pen PLUGGED IN, and take backup before doing this.) Alternatively, install on a different computer WITH every driver, and then take the SSD back to the new computer.

8. Worst case before sending it all back (or if you can't check each component individually) is to take the computer apart and build it up again, and making sure everything is pressed into their slot nicely. In some cases this actually helps with connectivity problems.

In my experience the most common problems are usually with the install medium / source / driver, or the harddrive itself, be it corruption or just faulty transfer, but then again, hardware errors do happens also...
Post edited May 19, 2020 by sanscript
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AB2012: - Try running the memory at 2133MHz at "loose" timings. Some Ryzen boards can be very finicky with memory, ie, even though the memory may not be faulty it's still possible for a board to "just not like" certain types of RAM. Try removing one stick and test then put it back and remove the other. Try using the other two RAM slots on the board to test for faulty motherboard memory slot.
running memory at 2133mhz fixed the BSOD and now everything seems to run stable.

whether i can make it run at 2400mhz now did not yet test it. this is to be tested tomorrow.

thx all for good suggestion. seems the issue was ram at 2400mhz at least for the initial install.
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lukaszthegreat: thx all for good suggestion. seems the issue was ram at 2400mhz at least for the initial install.
That's what I said first... but I forgot that it's not called XMP on AMD systems. ;-)