Been a while since I dug through my many GB of Morrowind mods.... so let's see.
For a texture replacer I'm partial to
Mixed Textures. It combines textures from several texture packs (basically assembling the best of the best), and keeps the same general appearance and feel as the original game while vastly improving texture quality.
A lot of the other texture replacers I used seem a bit hard to find (lots of older Morrowind mods just aren't hosted anywhere), so I'd recommend browsing through either
TES Nexus or
Planet Elderscrolls for things like weapons, armor, and faces. I did find
Better Heads, however, which I'd definately recommend. Better Bodies is also highly recommended.
A couple other mods I'd highly recommend:
Unofficial Morrowind Patch: self explanatory
Morrowind Advanced: Boosts difficulty a bit by tweaking leveled lists, adding some new creatures, etc. Very balanced and well done.
Combat Enhanced: Greatly, greatly improves the combat mechanics of the game. Requires
Morrowind Enhanced. Morrowind Graphics Extender: If you're going to have great textures you might as well up your view distance.
Less Generic NPCs: Gives a bunch of NPCs unique dialogue as opposed to everyone having the same things to say.
Galsiah's Character Development: Overhauls the leveling system so you can just play the game rather than powergaming to get those 5x multipliers.
Morrowind Comes Alive: Adds a ton of NPCs through the game to make the world feel much more alive.
Also, while not must-have, a few high quality quest mods I'd highly recommend:
Suran Underworld Illuminated Order Lothavor's Legacy White Wolf of Lokken Mountain EDIT: I'd also recommend
TESTool for merging leveled lists (something you need to do when using multiple mods that modify the same leveled lists).